The denim jacket is the most useful casual jacket a man can own. It's tough, it gets better as it fades, and in the UK it covers most of spring, autumn and — with the right lining — winter. Choosing one means three decisions: weight, lining and fit.
Denim weight explained: what does "oz" mean?
Denim is measured in ounces per square yard. Heavier denim is thicker, warmer, stiffer when new and fades with more contrast over time.
- 10.5oz — light to mid-weight. Comfortable from day one, good for spring and layering. Example: the Mousehole 10.5oz Denim Jacket.
- 12.5oz — the classic all-rounder. Enough structure to hold its shape, soft enough for daily wear. Example: the Okehampton 12.5oz Classic Denim Jacket.
- 20oz selvedge — heavyweight, for enthusiasts. Very stiff at first; breaks in over months into a jacket that is entirely yours, with sharp, high-contrast fades. Example: the Totnes 20oz Selvedge Denim Jacket.
What is selvedge denim?
Selvedge ("self-edge") denim is woven on narrow shuttle looms that produce a finished, clean edge on the fabric, rather than a cut edge that frays. It is slower to make, typically denser, and prized for how it ages. If you want a jacket that tells the story of the years you've worn it, selvedge is worth the price.
Lined denim jackets: sherpa vs fleece vs lambswool
An unlined denim jacket is a three-season piece. A lined one gets you through a British winter.
- Sherpa lining — the warmest and the most recognisable, with a fluffy collar. See the Moretonhampstead Sherpa-Lined Denim Jacket.
- Fleece lining — warm but flatter, so it layers under a coat or over a jumper more easily: the Chagford Fleece-Lined Denim Jacket.
- Lambswool-lined with a hood — a cosy, casual take: the Helston Lambswool-Lined Hooded Denim Jacket.
Which fit: Type III, relaxed or oversized?
- Type III (trucker) — the classic shape with pointed chest pockets and V-seams, cut to finish at the waist. The safest choice: Penzance Vintage Type III.
- Relaxed / washed — a softer, roomier body with a lived-in wash: Ashburton Washed Relaxed Denim Jacket.
- Oversized and hooded — a modern streetwear shape: Lostwithiel Oversized Hooded Denim Jacket.
- Japanese heavy wash — a deeper, more textured finish: Tavistock Japanese Heavy-Wash.
Fit check: the shoulder seam should sit on your shoulder bone, the hem should land at or just below the belt, and you should be able to button it over a T-shirt without pulling across the chest.
Five ways to wear a denim jacket
- With black jeans and a white tee. Different shades of denim stop the "double denim" problem.
- With chinos. Stone or olive chinos, a grey tee and white trainers — see what trousers to wear with a denim jacket.
- Over a hoodie. The off-duty classic. Choose a relaxed or oversized jacket so the hoodie fits underneath.
- Under an overcoat. A thin, unlined denim jacket under a wool overcoat adds warmth and a casual edge in deep winter.
- Double denim, done right. Wear a darker jacket with lighter jeans (or the reverse) and break it up with a white or grey layer.
How to care for a denim jacket
Wash it rarely — every few months — inside out, cold, and hang it to dry. The less you wash it, the better it fades. Raw or selvedge denim benefits from being worn hard for several months before the first wash.
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